Kerala backwaters are calling me back

Sunset over Lake Vembanad

One of my favorite stops so far in India was the backwaters of Kerala. Serene settings with fabulous sunrises and sunsets, this, to me, was a place to go to really unwind and relax. We arrived from Munnar close to sunset, and I was able to really get a feel of relaxation looking over the waters of the huge lake in front of me watching the sinking star slowly making its way towards the horizon.

The Kerala Backwaters are interconnected bodies of waterways and is used for transportation by local Keralites and is popularly known and established as Kerala Backwaters. The experience of an unforgettable journey is guaranteed in the tranquil surroundings. It gives the feeling of literally getting transported into Paradise through the hands of God. You’ll enter a world of serenity and bursting natural beauty by getting acquainted with the green countryside, winning palm trees and wide acres of charming rice fields. The traditional lifestyle of Kerala is widely prevalent and is clearly visible once you travel here. It has also been observed that the fishermen living here share a unique relationship with the backwaters of Kerala. And why not? It is their only source of livelihood. Some never leave the waters their entire lives.

We stayed in a small resort, very nicely appointed but not too pretentious called Illikkalam Lakeside Cottages on the expansive Vembanad Lake (Vembanad is the longest lake in India, and the largest lake in the state of Kerala) at Kumarakom. A family run operation, small but efficient, and I felt like a king on vacation. Our separate villa was lakeside and the view was tremendous.

We had a few guests in our room, in the form of Geckos, and I was summoned by my wife to rid the place of them or risk sleeping alone. While I was not used to these wonderful creatures, I do know their importance and understand that they take care of the absolute unwanted party crashers, mosquitoes. I like the symbiotic relationship. My wife. Not so much. (She just read this as I wrote it, and said, “Not at all!”)

My view from the front porch of our villa.

As I have talked about in past posts, we really enjoyed getting up early and watching everything come alive. We woke early and walked down the main road, which is a dead end, so there was not much activity, found a Chaiwala and had our morning cup on the roadside listening to the sounds of the birds. Such different, incredible sounds, completely different from North American bird sounds.

Early morning sunrise over the backwaters

Life is slow here, allowing one to really take in the beauty

One of the things I love about India is that while I am just a visitor, for a very short time, everyday life goes on all round me while I am there and it is fascinating to me, and to the people I see or meet, it is business as usual. I wonder what they would think of my life? Not much, I can tell you!

This man would climb the trees on the grounds of the resort and drop down the coconuts so that they wouldn’t fall on the heads of guests. His payment for such services? Those same coconuts.

Local boys swimming and laughing amongst the Hyacinth in Lake Vembanad

We took a boat tour through the backwaters, passing fishing boats and clam diggers, gathering their trade the same way it has been done for thousands of years. We were treated to a slow puttering journey, past these men, past the palms, and wildlife, to a small building in the middle of a vast area of water in the middle of nowhere. Built on dry land, locals would walk along narrow spits of land to get here by foot, or moor their boats and head on in. We were treated to a tasty fried fish with fresh onion and lime, served on a banana leaf.
The setting, along with the trip and the food itself, made for one of the best meals I’ve had in India. It’s not just the food, but the experience.

Our boat moored in the Hyacinth

The character of a real wood boat lent to the mystique and feeling of visiting in another time

One of the local Keralites enjoying a smoke

The best fish I’ve ever had? Possibly. The setting didn’t hurt either!

Our little restaurant oasis

I think next time we might do the houseboat, sleeping and eating directly on the backwaters. But I really enjoyed our stay where we did.

One of the many houseboats plying the waters

Detail of the boat we hired for the day

Open waters and beautiful scenery

Paradise? It could be!

Clammers jump out of their boats and dive down to bring up their haul

Heading back loaded after the mornings’ catch

There are many other unexplored characteristics of this wonderland that deserve to be talked about. From Cochin/Kochi, Kozhikode, Kottayam, Alappuzha, also known as Alleppey, to name a few, are where you can visit and explore beaches; at the same time try various facilities like Yoga, Ayurveda and also enjoy ethnic backwater festivals like Onam, Vallam Kali (Snake boat) Festival and the Temple Festival Thrissur. The backwaters play a prominent role in the tourism of Kerala and is an outstanding destination to visit.

Kerala has a mystical magic that seems to stand still in time. Unlike other tropical holiday destinations, like Goa or Bali, swamped by tourism and the locals taking advantage of that, Kerala seems to have maintained a purity and sincerity that can really be felt.

Even in the resorts, everything moves as it should… slowly, prices are correct, and locals fall over themselves to help you.

So much different than the hustle and bustle of big cities like Delhi or Bangalore, Kumarakom, Kottayam, Kerala India is a place one can go to truly relax and unwind. I plan on doing just that at least one more time before I die.

Copyright 2019 Michael Roseberry. Photos were taken with Canon Powershot SD750.

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